Hiram holden



Hi HOLDEN.

SHOE.

APPLICATION r|LEo'Dc.2.1915.

Patented Aug. 8, 1916.

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W l J1! faam Jfoden, lo? /afwdmw/g HIRAM HOLDEN, OF MANCHESTER, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

SHOE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Application led December 2, 1915. Serial No. 64,741.

o all 'whom it may concern Be it known that I, HIRAM HOLDEN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Manchester, New Hampshire, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoes, of which the following is a specication. i The present invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes and pertains more particularly to the provision of an improved form of border strip which may be us'ed in different places in the construction of shoes t-o augment the leather and increase the working area of the material without in any way weakening `or marring the appearance o-f the inished shoe.

Increased cost of leather has made it necessary for manufacturers of boots and shoes to adopt various expedients and measures, whereby the amount of leather used in the manufacture of shoes could be reduced to a minimum. In the manufacture of shoe uppers especially have efforts been made' of recent years to economize as much as possible, due to the constant increase in the cost of upper leather. It has been proposed to effect a saving of material in the manufacture of shoe uppers by providing a reinforce placed between the vamp of the shoe and the lining, the said reinforce being of a nonelastic -character and being made coextensive in area with the vamp of the Shoe so that its edges will project beyond the margin of the vamp and thus provide a skirt which can be pulled over and secured to the sole by stitching without undue stretching of the leather in the vamp. Such a method, however, presents grave drawbacks and does not satisfactorily solve the problem.

The presentinvention has for its object to provide an improved form of marginal strip which may be used in connection with the leather vamp or other portion of a shoe to aford an increased area thus minimizing the amount of expensive leather needed.

A further object of the invention is to provide such a form of marginal strip as will be inexpensive to make and will possess the necessary strength and wear resisting qualities.

With these and other objects in view, the invention consists in the combination and arran ement of parts more fully set forth in the foIlowing specification, illustrated in the accompanying drawings and pointed out in the appended claims.

In the drawings: Figure 1 shows a portion of an upper with one embodiment of the present' invention attached thereto. Fig. 2 1s a transverse sectional View of a partially completed welted shoe, which includes an upper constructed as shown by Fig. Il. Fig. 3 is a fragmental detail showing a portion of a shoe quarter with a different embodiment of the present invention attached thereto. Fig. 4 is a fragmentary view of the corrugated strip shown in side elevation.

In Fig. l of the drawing l represents the upper of a shoe in flat condition before the heel end is closed and comprises a vamp 2 Patented Aug. 8, i916.

and toe cap 3. The improvement, whichl constitutes the subject matter of the present lnvention consists of a relatively narrow strip 4 extending around the edge ofthe leather Vamp. The strip 4 differs widely from any thing that has heretofore been employed for this purpose, in that it is not a mere tape or cloth border, nor is it the projecting edge of a reinforce interposed between the leather of the vamp and the inner lining. In the form shown in Figs. 1 and 2 the marginal strip 4 consists of a border o crimped or corrugated paper 5 firmly secured to the edge of the leather by means of a continuous row of zigzag stitches 6 which pierce the edge of the leather and extend transversely across the paper st'rip 5 almost to its outer edge. The purpose of this strip of material is to aiiord an increased area coextensive with the leather provided with an edge which will be st'rong and capable of resisting effectively the strain to which it is normally subjected, as the pull over clamps of the Vlasting machine stretch the upper over the last` previous to the soling or welting process. It will be understood that the paper is not intended to withstand the wear and strain but is employed principally as a means, for supporting and holding the stitching 6 in proper place. It is not necessary that the crimped paper strip be glued or fastened to the leather by a separate step, as this will be accomplished by the l'one operation of stitching. By having the strip 5 of paper crimped or corrugated, the strip 4 will readily accommodate itself last and no irregular bulges will occur. Referring to Fig. 2,'it will be seen that after the strip 4 has been utilized in-pulling over the vamp 2, when the shoe is of welted construction. and the upper has been secured by to the curvature of the toe portion of the the usual inseam stitches 7 to the inner sole 8 and welt 9, the projecting portion of the strip 4 may be cut away or trimmed off in the usual manner, the leather portion being of such area that its edge requires practically no trimming at all. The stitches 6 may be provided with thread of any desired size or textile strength and the material of which the crimped paper strip 5 is composed may also be varied'to meet the special re.- quirements for different kinds of stock. .A great advantage which the present' form of strip affords, is its adaptability to various sorts of material and the numerous applications which can be made of it in different ,parts of the shoe construction.

In Fig. 3 a portion of the quarter of a shoe is shown, having a marginal strip 4 applied thereto in a similar manner and .consisting of a plain paper strip 5 with zigvzag stitches 6 supported therein and presenting a border of substantially like design and strength. In lieu of paper the strip 5 may be formed of sized cloth which wouldv j claim is:

1. A shoe'upper comprising a body portion of leather and an edge portion co-eX- tensive therewith, said edge portion comj prising a relatively narrow strip of sti maleather to a point adjacent the outer edge of said narrow strip for securing said strip to said leather.

3. A shoe upper comprising a body portion of leather, a marginal portion coextensive therewith, said marginal portion comprising a narrow strip of corrugated material and a row of stitching extending through the outer marginal portion of the leather portion and the inner marginal) portion of said strip at' the inner edge of the row and through the outer marginal portion of said strip at the outer edge of the row of stitching. l y

4. A shoe upper comprising a body portion of leather, a marginal portion coextensive with one edge thereof and projecting therefrom, said marginal portion comprising a row of projecting zigza stitching and a narrow strip of corrugate paper,'the paper forming suitable support for the outer ends of the stitching, and the inner ends of the stitching providing fastening means securing the paper strip to the leather.

In testimony whereof, I afIiX my signal 

